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行走在云南

  • 作者: 余静雯
  • 来源: 千岛湖润和度假村公司
  •     浏览: 5863 次

来一场说走就走的旅行。云南,古人用“彩云南现“来遥指这片神秘的云岭高原,在这块红土高原上,有四季如春的昆明,有古南诏大理,有神秘圣境香格里拉,有充满柔软时光的丽江。多民族文化给了她无限的魅力。旅行,就从这里开始。

第一站春城昆明。失望的是,和所有发展扩张的城市一样,昆明也未能免俗地到处都是拆啊建啊,空气显得不够清新。短暂停留后,果断逃离。昆明有直达大理和丽江的旅游专线,晚上发车,第二天上午到达,十分便利。来到云南,一定要住特色的客栈,我们定的客栈是典型的白族建筑,建得相当精美,白墙青砖彩绘,门口种着鲜花,廊下挂着鸟笼,实在是很有情调。

第二站大理,那最著名的风花雪月是一定要见识见识的。风花雪月是大理最著名的四大景观。大理的上关是一片开阔的草原,鲜花铺地,姹紫嫣红,人称上关花;下关则是一个山口,清风徐来舒爽惬意,人称关风;雄伟壮丽的苍山横亘大理境内,山顶白雪皑皑,银妆素裹,人称苍山雪洱海风光秀美,每到月夜,水色如天,月光似水,人称洱海月。 在这里,你可以抛开一切俗事纷扰,做风花雪月的梦,说风花雪月的情,听风花雪月的故事。

放下行李我们就迫不及待地去往苍山。山下是风和日丽,山上是白雪皑皑,只有高山杜鹃不惧严寒地矗立着。可惜时节不对,想必56月份的时候,漫山遍野的高山杜鹃开在雪地里,那样的美景一定仿如仙境。由于当天风大,缆车停运早,不得不抱憾而归。当天晚上吃了本地菜,喝了当地特色的梅子酒,甜甜的,度数不高,很适合女生喝。

第二天包车去双廊,起了个大早,去了本地人开的早餐店,终于吃到了地道的米线,相比起来什么过桥米线这样声名远播的反而又贵又不好吃,美食果然都隐藏在小店里,本地米线真是物美价廉,6块钱就满满一大碗,而且用料十足,味道一绝,有机会去大理一定不能错过。

大理日照强烈,出门一定要做好防晒工作。大理的天空几近透明,蓝得浓郁,空气不染尘埃,就算哪儿也不去,只是抬头望天都能醉了。洱海环湖游,更是处处都是景,一路都可以停车拍照。途径喜洲,特意去买了闻名遐迩的喜洲粑粑,味道还可以,并没有传闻那么惊艳。有趣的是看到很多当地的居民坐马车来赶集。离开喜洲,直奔终点站双廊,可惜赶上双廊大开发,到处都在建客栈,显得乱糟糟的。而且没有清晰的路牌,很容易迷路,人气很高的海地生活等客栈都在村子的尽头,需要耐心寻找。我们找了一家靠海的餐厅坐了一下午,看看海,喝喝茶,真是好惬意。

第三天,告别大理,前往第三站丽江。丽江--这个温柔多情,充满神秘魅力的地方。出了车站就联系了到网上预订的客栈,客栈小哥热心过来接我们。也许所有的古城都一样,路面是青石板铺成的,凹凸不平,拖着行李箱走在这样的路上简直是折磨,还好有热心的小哥帮我们扛箱子。这里的每一条小巷,每一个拐角都仿佛有一个故事,惊艳了时光,温柔了岁月。时间仿佛都慢了半拍,睡到自然醒,吃完早午饭到楼顶阳台找个阳光充足的地方待着,当地人都管这叫烤太阳,懒洋洋,慢悠悠,一整天就这么过去了。丽江的一切都让人心醉,我们着迷地整日整日游荡在古城的大街小巷,角角落落,并且乐此不疲。

尽管多有不舍,终究是要离开。两天后我们出发前往下一站--泸沽湖,传说中的摩梭女儿国。独特的民族文化赋予了她传奇的色彩。这个与世隔绝的女儿国不会辜负任何一个旅人。由于地处偏僻路途遥远,我们花了将近9个小时才到。到了这里才深切感受到何为山路十八弯。一路途径了雪山和金沙江,不用买门票,不用特意寻找,这一路就已经收获美景无数。

游泸沽湖一般都是环湖游,可以选择徒步、包车、租电瓶车、租自行车。如果会骑电瓶车,那么这将是最好的交通工具了,可以呼吸到最新鲜的空气,还可以随时停车拍照。由于这边是山路,上下坡较多,若骑自行车那可真是相当需要体力。我们最后选择了轻松的包车环湖游,每到一景点司机兼导游的大叔都会让大家拍照游玩。走婚桥应该是最让人期待的景点了,可惜时节不对,草都还枯黄着,损失了几分颜色。走婚桥并不长,是泸沽湖上唯一的一座桥,桥两旁郁郁葱葱的海草形成海洋一般,故名为草海走婚桥是摩梭男女约会的地方, 泸沽湖畔的摩梭人奉行男不娶,女不嫁走婚习俗。可惜现在已经没有人走婚了,也只剩下这座桥见证着当年的阿注和阿夏那独特的走婚。

随着泸沽湖环湖游的结束,旅程也接近尾声,即使有再多不舍我们也将告别这世外桃源,从天堂返回人间。但是我坚信我和云南的缘分未尽,不久的将来,我还会拿起背包抛开一切,再续这一段未尽之缘。

 

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